Yes I am alive! Despite my lack of blogging I did in fact
survive sailing some 600 nautical miles across the middle of the ocean. I have
plenty of stories to tell about fighting monstrous sea beasts, trading with
spice merchants and drinking with murderous pirates, but I’m sure you’ve all
heard those stories many times before so I won’t bore you with those details.
After our departure was delayed by a rather tardy Palauan
customs officer we were finally underway around high noon. We headed out of the
Malakal bay towards Palau’s west passage and were promptly hit with a pretty
solid squall with up to 30 knot winds. While it didn’t last long it did give us
a little taste of what we would experience later in the trip.
The rest of the day was fairly uneventful, I learnt the
ropes of the boat (literally) and I reeled in a black fin tuna that we had for
dinner that night. By nightfall, the seas had increased enough that the
constant bouncing around started getting to me. After eating and dividing up
the night shifts I thought I’d grab a shower and try and get a quick nap in
before my first shift at 11pm. The shower cubicle is rather small and the seas
were rough enough that I was physically bouncing off the walls. This didn’t
help my stomach at all and I promptly had to locate the toilet, lucky it was
right next to the shower.
Somehow I got a little bit of sleep before the first of my
two shifts overnight. With the exception of one night we normally ran shifts of
2 hours on, 4 hours off. Tasks for the night shift are; regularly checking for
any obstacles in our path, watching the AIS electronic tracking system (and
radar), keeping the boat on course, watching the wind strength and direction
and adjusting or putting up and down the jib as appropriate.
Despite still feeling sea sick I enjoyed my two night shifts
on the first night. In fact the night shifts were my favourite part of the
whole trip. I truly enjoyed the peacefulness of sitting by myself up on the
deck, listening to music, staring at the wide open ocean and regularly checking
the controls.
What became a little tough over the next few days was the
lack of a decent length sleep. You’d regularly sleep 4 or 5 separate times in
each day. Add to that the difficultly in sleeping in a boat… Imagine your bed
quickly rising and falling between your ceiling and the floor in your room.
Then add the noise from waves hitting the hull and various typical boat noises;
winches, pullies, motors, sails etc etc
But back to #2 two, after getting sea sick on the first
night this lasted throughout the next day and only abated late on the second
night. Thankfully I was now used to the constant rocking and bouncing around that
I didn’t suffer any further from sea sickness.
The next few days continued much the same, we only passed
two other boats in the first 3 days, both very large container ships heading
towards Palau. Otherwise there was nothing to see at all. Before the trip I
wondered if I’d have some sort of epiphany with being in the middle of the
ocean but you can only see so far and it’s rather difficult to comprehend the
size of the ocean and just how small you are in comparison. The only way you
could get any concept was to check the GPS system.
Outside of the shifts and sleeping there often wasn’t a huge
amount of time left in the day. I did a little reading but not as much as I had
expected to do. We also did a number of maintenance jobs around the boat. I’m
now an expert in hatch repair and also am pretty good at scrubbing the decks
and washing dishes ;)
We had a day or so with average weather which made it less
enjoyable, more so because I couldn’t sit in my favourite chair on the top of
the deck during my shifts.
As we neared the Philippines things got a little more
exciting, we had to keep an eye out for FAD’s (Fish Activation Device). These
are anything from ropes, chains or more complex metal structures anchored or
hanging down from a large metal float. These are supposed to help coral and
fish grow, but the Philippines are so overfished that everyone just goes and
fishes around these devices. So nothing gets a chance to grow or spawn. The
biggest issue to us with these FADs is that they often don’t show on the radar
and are sometimes painted black. Perfect for running into and smashing up your
boat.
As well as looking out for these we started encountering
various sized Filipino fishing fleets and huge container ships heading North.
The weirdest encounter we had was at 125 nautical miles off
the coast of the Philippines we suddenly noticed this guy on a tiny motorised
canoe come up alongside us. At first he wanted some petrol from us, after
saying no we continued to see him around us for a while until he again came
over asking for water. We filled up his container and also gave him some juice
and a pair of sunglasses. He was so thankful he gave us his rather meagre catch
for the day. Again he was visible around us for a while longer before coming
back a third time, this time I was not sure whether he wanted some food off us
or whether he wanted to give us more for the juice and sunglasses. Either way
we said no and he thanked us again and headed off. Given how far we were away
from the coast and how little he was provisioned with, we can only assume he
had a mother ship around somewhere.
After almost 5 days we finally saw land again at the bottom of
Davao, down the southern end of the Philippines. We rounded the point late in
the afternoon but still had near another 12 hours of sailing up to the marina
on Samal Island. We would only run for another few hours before stopping for
the night. The biggest concern was running into one of the hundreds of tiny
unlit fishing boats crawling everywhere.
The next day we headed up to the marina, the boat was due to
be hauled out to have some significant repairs and maintenance completed. Once
safely moored we did some more work around the boat before retiring for a hard
earned beer.
I stayed only the boat another couple of nights before
heading up to Manila for a few days prior to flying home. If I can find the
impetus I’ll write a post about my Davao City/Manila experiences.
I thoroughly enjoyed my trip and am very thankful for the
opportunity and experience. I don’t think they’ll ever make a true sailor out
of me but I’m open to doing another trip like this if the situation is right.
|
my bunk for the week |
|
the open ocean |
|
my favourite spot on the boat, bonus points if you spot the container ship! |
|
old mate 125 nautical miles off the coast |
|
a near miss with a 300m long container ship |
|
the controls |
|
One of the rainy days |
|
not much to see on the open ocean |
|
another 'close call' |
|
Land Ho! |
|
Morning mist around Davao |
|
Heading into the marina |